Assembly Instructions for Pattern Makers Saw Kit - Part I

Posted by Robert Streeper on

1.0 Materials Supplies and Tools needed

1.1 Hand saw with 0.015” thick blade
1.2 Two part epoxy
1.3 Assortment of sand paper up to 400 grit.
1.4 Alamo Toolworks Pattern Makers Saw blade/plate 0.015”
1.5 Alamo Toolworks Pattern Makers Saw handle blank
1.6 Alamo Toolworks Pattern Makers Saw handle rivets X2
1.7 Vise 1.8 Arbor press (optional) 1.9 Hand sanding block.
1.10 Files or rasps for forming handle profile, see below.
1.11 Marking gauge
1.12 Pencil
1.13 A piece of leather to protect you saw handle.
2.0 Procedure:

2.1 First and foremost be safe, wear and consistently use all appropriate personal

protective equipment.

2.1 Lay out the components of you ATW Pattern Makers Saw kit and all needed tools and supplies as described in Section 1 above.

2.3 Handle shaping can be accomplished in a variety of ways using a wide variety of tools.

From the left is a dovetail saw, 15 ppi having a 0.015” thick saw plate. Next to that is an ATW Gentlemans saw 16 ppi also with a 0.015” saw plate. Next is a variety of Nicholson files including a 14” rat tail bastard cut, a 10” Superior milled tooth, a 10” rat tail smooth cut, a 8” knife profile x smooth cut and a 8” square profile smooth cut. The rasps are all from Liogier and include an 11 gr. 10” cabinet maker’s rasp, a 12 gr. rat tail, a 14 gr model makers rasp and Handle Makers Rasps in 9, 12 and 15 gr.

You do not need all of these tools, a simple round file will work but you work will go faster and the results will be better if you use better tools.

 2.4 The first step is the preparation of the slot in the handle for the blade. First lay your handle on top of the blade and trace the outline of the blade onto the handle to give you an idea of where and how deep to make the blade slot. Don’t forget to mark the points where you want your rivets. Adjust the relative positions of the blade and handle to suit your preference for hang angle.

2.5 Now you must accurately mark the position of the blade slot. It is best to do this operation using a marking gauge having a cutting wheel such as the Bridge City Toolworks. Use a piece of leather to protect your handle from the vise jaws.

Use of a marking gauge is not essential; you can simply mark the center line with a pencil. Using a marking gauge with a cutting wheel will however create an initial scribed line that will allow you to more easily position your saw for making the blade slot.

Bring the scribed line around the cheeks of the saw handle until it intersects with the blade outline you penciled in as described above.

 2.6   Now begin cutting the blade slot. Start slowly and carefully and cut a shallow groove from one end of the blade slot to the other following the cut made by the marking gauge. Make sure you slot is straight from the start!

2.7 Deepen the blade slot until you have spanned the section of wood between the beginning and the ending marks made on the handle.


 2.8 To cut the square back of the blade slot pull the toe of your saw in and work it in short strokes back and forth while pressing down on the toe to cause it to begin cutting deeper. Once you have gone as far as you can check the fit of the blade in the slot you have made. If you need to cut more do so.
2.9 Ultimately you will get a slot with a rounded corner at the back. Compensate for this by removing the back corner of the saw plate. You can use tin snips as illustrated or you can file or grind the blade profile to fit. Work slowly and incrementally – you don’t want to mess this part up.

To be continued in Part II...

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